Plant Centre history

When we arrived at Kintaline there was a fence down the side of the house, and a small flower bed in the rough grass on the other side. 

The area by the house soon became a home to make shift houses for the first birds, to entertain our two Munsterlanders they thought! 

Then a caravan appeared as an outlet to sell whatever we could produce, and opened up to others with crafting talents. 

More plants were grown and a space for these needed .. a more permanent home for the shop space was built, and the plant centre area evolved. 

Avian Influenza for domestic poultry keepers

The bird flu lockdown across the country throughout the winter 2017 in the face of the Avian Influenza strain H5N8 that flocks of the wintering migrant birds from the Arctic had picked up was a new and significant change in our domestic poultry keeping regimes.

If you want to receive the alerts from our agriculture department about  exotic and notifiable animal diseases through the APHA alerts service sign up here.

Selling Eggs

If you are only selling / giving eggs to the people who are eating them, you have to simply follow sensible food safety.
But the moment you sell / give to anyone who is either using them for baking or cooking for somoeone else to buy; selling / giving them to someone who will sell them on; or in any other way breaking the direct food chain then you need to register as a packing station with Edinburgh egg and poultry unit.
Good food safety is to collect them daily, several times if very hot. To keep nestboxes very clean; not to wash eggs; to store them in trays somewhere that has a stable cool temperature.
You should not call them free range unless you are registered as it is a legal special marketing term. but Free Roaming is fine.
If you can take an elementary food safety certificate locally that is a great way to show you have the understanding and are prepared to fulfil the necessary due diligence to take care of your customers.
Class A eggs are again a specific term, and require particular grading and care.
Putting sizes on eggs requires accurate weighing scales.

these links are for Scotland, if you live elsewhere you need to find the appropriate department for your area.
Egg Inspections

Treats for hens

The main need for birds is to get plenty of protein and food with high nutrition. Laying birds give us one of the most nutrient dense foods every day, and that comes from the food we give them. If not, they will deplete their bodies causing a nutritional starvation.


People want to feed their birds more than layers pellets –

Good hen house design

Good house design

  • ship lap timber
  • simple
  • great ventilation – long narrow strips of mesh protected as well as through the corrugations of the roof for bigger houses
  • high ventilation – not around the heads of the birds

Bad house design

  • plastic, tin,
  • felt roofing – which attracts and promotes red mite infestations
  • slats in the floor as roosting bars – very unnatural, and causes breast bone issues
  • no perches – chickens want to roost from only a few days and weeks old.

Feeding Chickens

How to feed domestic birds depends on the bird, its age, the situation and its production.

Chickens need to eat little and often, throughout the day and night at will.
Water can be left outside at night for adult birds.


Adult chickens – laying strains
From 16 weeks old throughout their lives good laying hens, either pure breed or hybrid need to have layers pellets ad lib in their house at all times. Never be without it.
Good laying birds should not be fed Mixed Grain or Whole Wheat except for when the weather is really wet AND cold – these are high calorie, and ideal for providing internal central heating for birds (the “ready brek” effect) but if fed routinely then it causes damage to the liver. The more productive the bird the less they can handle these grains and death of fatty liver syndrome can occur.

Chickens should not “fasted” overnight but can do without water inside the house, as long as fresh water daily is provided close to the house.
Feeding birds once or twice a day is NOT enough .. even for unproductive bantams. Maintainance feed for chickens is 125g a day – and for birds who are laying this should be 16 % protein feed with vitamins and minerals.
The garden / field environment does not provide this sort of nutrition, it is entertainment and good herb / insect rich additions to the diet do make the eggs taste so much better.
Not providing correct amounts of layers feed will shorten birds lives, reduce their vigour, reduce their laying, force them to rob their internal resources to provide the dense nutrients in each egg they produce.

Feeding chickens ad lib with a proper hanging feeder inside a well made house does not attract rodents.
However scatter feeding does ..

Bark Pen

Bark filled pens are the best way to manage the ground in pens that birds have to be confined in for any length of time. It also provides the birds with an improved quality of life. It can be decidely frustrating for birds to be able to see the outside world but be prevented from getting to it, or teased with only rare visits out.

One of the very worst pen management circumstances a poultry or waterfowl keeper can find themselves with, is a wet bare soil area. This is the quickest way to bacteria soup and seriously ill chickens. Unfortunately far too many people find themselves in this situation having spent a great deal on an undersized permanent pen for birds in a corner of the garden.

Do not despair – there are solutions to give your birds a decent quality of life, and even reward you with a superb source of mulch for your garden.

The best time to set this up is at the beginning of your poultry keeping, I wlll mention some of the remedial actions at the end. Even if you are going to let your birds out most of the time, either free in the garden or protected behind electric netting using this method to provide your birds with a perfect place to sulk on wet grotty days, to have an established dust bath and somewhere you can shut them in temporarily if needed.
grosvenor chicken coop and run pen

Many people buy a house with an integral run, like the one to the right. This has a door at the end of the run to let birds out, and the birds can shelter underneath the house if the weather gets horrid. If you live in an area of persistant grotty weather then putting a cover on the run top is a good idea to provide a bigger dry area.

To set up a bark area the MOST IMPORTANT thing is to lay down either slabs or, even better, the permeable ground cover membrane for paths and gardens. This prevents the soil from mixing with the bark and is vital to prevent disease. It also allows you to clean the area thoroughly when required.
The best bark to use is the coarsest you can get hold of. If you can source bark straight off the tree direct from a timber mill so much the better. Otherwise you can get it in bags from the garden centres. The reason for coarseness is to allow the droppings etc to pass through for as long as possible. The activity of the hens will break it down over time.
When setting up the pen the bark should be 4 – 6 inches deep. This creates a depth that the muck and rain can get away from the birds, the acidity will help to neutralise it and the top layer gets to dry out. This top layer will be what the birds will haev to work away at, so keeping them entertained and reducing bullying that happens so much with birds enclosed in small spaces. Bugs and grubs are attracted to the bark environment and its easy to ‘seed’ the area with wheat and rake it in so the birds can scratch for it, that which germinates gives them welcome greens.

How often it will need turned over depends on how often they are using it, how wet or dry it is, how many in what space etc etc. There are always plenty of ‘depends’ and very few rules in any animal husbandry. Using a fork in dry conditions you can turn the bark about a bit, keeping it light and aerated.

After some weeks, or even a couple of months, of good maintenance it will eventually become obvious that the bark needs replaced. When it has broken down to fine bits and the muck and wet are no longer passing through. At this point remove it all and pile it up in your garden. Left for 6 months to continue to rot it will become the most perfect mulch. Give the area a really good clean and wash down, refill and start again.

If you are starting from a soggy muddy mess !! the best is to remove some of the worst of the mud before laying down the membrane, remembering to create a drain line out of the area. If you fear, or know from sickness in birds, that you have a serious bacterial buildup then you can treat the ground with Oocide first.


Creating a Living Larder : Food, Fibre & Fuel from a few acres in North Argyll